Beyond the (Lemon) Wedge

Winter in Southern California means that lemons are in season and available in abundance. There is life beyond using lemons for a garnish or beverage flavoring. It is thought that preserved lemons offer health benefits, due to the natural fermentation process, including probiotics and vitamin C. Preserved lemon peel provides fiber and antioxidants, which may support digestion.

Preserved and candied lemons were practical ways to extend the shelf life of fresh lemons. Salt-cured preserved lemons may have originated in 11th-century North Africa, while candied lemons originated in ancient Greece, Rome and Egypt, using honey to create both a sweet treat and a medicinal remedy. Lemon- preserving techniques evolved over time, with salt-curing staying popular in Middle Eastern and North African cuisines and candying becoming a popular, high-status confection in Europe.

Salt-cured lemons are quartered lengthwise (with the peel on), packed in salt, and submerged in a brine of lemon juice and salt water. They are left to ferment for several weeks, which soften the rind, developing a complex and salty flavor. For candied lemons, only the peel is used. It is preserved in sugar syrup, which can be used as a candy or a flavoring.

Making preserved lemons involves covering them with lemon juice. A rule of thumb is at least one lemon is juiced for every lemon that’s preserved, meaning there can be a lot of leftover peel.. Some of the peel can also be used as zest, shaving just the yellow-colored portion of the peel, which can be frozen until needed and some of the peel can be candied. Preserved lemons can be used, sliced to top pizza or pasta, or cooked with grains, vegetables, fish and seafood, potatoes and stews.

Preserving lemons is a relatively straightforward process, with patience being one of the components. It can take up to two weeks for preserved lemons to reach the desired taste and texture. Candied lemons are usually a two-step, time-intensive process. First, julienned lemon peels are boiled in several changes of water, reducing the bitterness. The second step is to braise the boiled peels in simple syrup. Simple syrup is created with two parts sugar and one part water, such as 2 cups of sugar and 1 cup of water. The syrup needs to boil, on low, while being stirred, until it is slightly thickened. The boiled lemon peel is added to the simple syrup and allowed to cook until slightly translucent. The peel is then drained, allowed to cool, and if you like, sprinkled with powdered sugar. Be certain to allow the lemons to cool before adding the sugar or you may wind up with a gooey, goopy mass clump of lemons.

You can actually make both candied and quick-preserved lemons in the microwave, though the results are a bit different from traditional stovetop (candied) or fermentation (preserved) methods. The microwave significantly reduces the time required for both recipes.

Prepare preserved microwave lemons by slicing two whole lemons, removing seeds. Place the lemon slices in a microwave-safe container with a tight lid, covering the lemons with one or two tablespoons of kosher salt, two tablespoons of water and juice from one lemon. Microwave on high for 10 minutes, stirring every 2–3 minutes to prevent boiling over. Allow to cook until all the liquid has evaporated. Allow the mixture to cool completely. Transfer the preserved lemons to sterilized, airtight jars, allowing them to stand for at least 24 hours before using.

Prepare candied lemon peel in the microwave by peeling two large lemons and placing the peels in a microwave-safe bowl (use a large bowl, to prevent any boil-overs), covering them with water. Cover and microwave on high for eight minutes. Drain the water, add fresh water and repeat two more times, to remove bitterness. Set aside. In a large microwave bowl, create the syrup with 1 cup of sugar and 1 ½ cups of water. Cover and microwave for four minutes, stirring once. Add the cooked peels to the syrup, and stir to coat. Microwave on high, stir, and then microwave for another five minutes. Remove from the microwave, stir, and allow the peels to cool, in the syrup, for at least 30 minutes. Spread on a wire rack to dry. Store in an airtight container until ready to use.

Whether home-made or store-bought, there are many uses for preserved and candied lemons:

Preserved Lemons

• Soups and stews: Add a spoonful of finely minced peel to deepen the flavor of tagines, stews and soups.
• Dressings and sauces: Mince the peel to add a salty, bright flavor to vinaigrettes, pesto, or aioli.
• Roast vegetables: Toss chopped preserved lemon with roasted carrots, broccoli, or potatoes for a tangy punch.
• Grain dishes: Mix with couscous, rice, or lentil salads.
• Seafood: Use it to the flavor fish and shellfish dishes, soups and chowders.

Candied Lemons

• Garnish: Place whole or halved slices on cakes, cupcakes, tarts, and cocktails.
• Snack: Enjoy the chewy, sweet-tart slices on their own or with a cup of tea.
• Baked goods: Chop candied peels and mix them into muffins, scones, and lemon bread.
• Homemade syrup: Use the leftover lemon-infused syrup in iced tea, lemonade, or cocktails.

Please email the author at foodprof2@gmail.com with ideas for future columns or for health or nutrition questions.