Bleu or Blue?

Few cheeses inspire as much conversation as the mention of blue (or “bleu,” if you want to sound more continental) cheese. No one can be quite certain about the origins of blue cheese. For all we know, if Neanderthals were performing root canals, maybe they also had perfected cave-aged cheese production.

The most popular blue cheese legend begins in the seventh century, in a cave near Roquefort, France.

The story goes that, to keep cool, a young couple were having a lunch of bread and cheese inside a cave; parts of the lunch were left behind. Returning several months later, the couple found that their leftover cheese had developed veins of blue mold. The scientists provided the name “Penicillium roqueforti,” after the place of origin.

For many years, cheese gourmands would only accept Roquefort-cave-aged cheese as “blue cheese.”

In reality, this is an origin story without much veracity. The type of mold found on the original blue cheese is not found naturally in caves, but rather in moldy grain. Veins of mold would have to be injected into the cheese, as they would not form naturally. Most probably, early cheese makers used quills or needles to inject spores from moldy rye bread to create blue cheese.

All blue cheeses do not taste or look the same, as many different molds are used. There are several well-known types of Penicillium fungi used in the making of blue cheese.

For example, P. glaucum is often associated with Gorgonzola and has a greener appearance. The type of milk and mold (and the amount of mold used, injected as “veins”) creates a blue cheese that ranges from crumbly to creamy and mild to pungent.

Cheese makers can influence the “personality” of a blue cheese by wrapping the cheese, or not, while it is aging, allowing a rind to form, or not, or “washing” or rubbing the aging cheeses with liqueurs, grape leaves or even hay.

If you are new to selecting blue cheese, the crumblier types of usually more pungent. The mold breaks down some of the milk’s fat, creating stronger-tasting compounds, as well as dehydrating the cheese, creating a more concentrated flavor (think raisins versus grapes).

Blue cheese is a concentrated source of nutrients; a small serving goes a long way. About one ounce of blue cheese contains calcium, protein, phosphorus, selenium and riboflavin (a B vitamin). With careful planning, blue cheese can be part of a healthy diet, but it is high in sodium and saturated fat, so moderation is key.

People prone to headaches or migraines may want to limit or avoid blue cheese, as it can be a trigger food. Importantly, people allergic to penicillin or molds, with compromised immune systems or severe lactose intolerance should avoid blue cheese.

Humans do not live on blue cheese alone. There are beers and wines that pair well with blue cheese. IPAs that have fruit and hop notes help to reduce the fattymouth feel of blue cheese and work as a team to enhance the earthy taste of both the beer and the cheese. Blue cheese needs a robust wine to stand up to it. Red wines, such as a Malbec, Shiraz or Zinfandel work well, as do sweet dessert wines, such as a port, sherry or even ice wine.

If spirits are of interest, a tequila reposado or anejo can work, as can a gin or liquors infused with botanicals, such as Chartreuse.

Blue cheese works well on the menu, topping steaks or burgers, salads or roasted vegetables, a decadent macaroni and cheese, sliced apples, pears, apricots, white peaches or pears and even apple pie or apple strudel.

Please contact the writer at foodprof2@gmail.com, for nutrition questions or with ideas for upcoming columns.